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Category Archives: Costuming

Sakura Kinomoto Wig

(Omg I’m big anime eyed-desu :D)

So I just got done styling my -legasp- Sakura Kinomoto wig. I plan to do this cosplay at Otakon. I won’t reveal what version, and you won’t be able to tell by the wig :3 that’s still a secret!

(The Finished Wig)

I thought I’d start a little tutorial on how this as done. Note, I’m still a novice wig styler, and not all my methods are good. I’m still learning. So if you have positive critique and helpful tips, go ahead and add them :3 but know that I’m not a master, so please don’t chastise <3!

(This was the base wig http://cosplaywig.ecrater.com)

The base wig I bought was one that had fullness and room to cut. I didn’t need longer, as I don’t like to cut horrendous amounts off. Note that most master wig crafters recommend always getting a medium wig even for short wigs to allow ample styling. I just didn’t want to spend the extra money >>;

After getting the wig, I found out it had crimped base hair for fullness. It wasn’t in the item description, so I could’ve sent it back. But it did give me some extra fullness to play with, so I kept it. Besides, shipping back to China takes a gazillion years and you’re less likely to get your money back anyway.After I got it, I trimmed it to the right lengths everywhere. After adding wefts, it’s easier to reestablish the cut if all the other hair is right, and you just have a few strands out of place. Note: When cutting bangs and trimming, use your scissors in an upward fashion instead of going across. You get nice triangle cuts that fall much better than ‘bowl’ cutting.

I knew that, in order to create Sakura’s bangs, I would need to add extra wefts to the top of the wig. When you have a natural wig colour, it’s so easy to get wefts.

(Human Hair Wefts)

The reason I say natural wig wefts are easy to find (and cheap, mind you) is because you can go to a Dollar Buster or discount Beauty Store (and not to be offensive, but these are usually found in the ghetto or cheapside). You get gorgeous any-length human hair wefts for super cheap. I got about 4 feet here for 8$ and the colour was PERFECT. The hair is so soft and easy to style also. If you have an unnatural color, it’s best to go online and find pre-sewn wefts if you can. Making your own wefts is not only tedious and messy, but usually doesn’t last nearly as long and the fibers become soooo much more tangled than pre-sewn. Lastly, presewn wefts can be cut in any inch amount and will not fall apart on you. If you’ve ever done caulk on a weft to make one…you know how easily they can fall apart.

After cutting out a few sections of weft, I sewed them into the top of the cap as I knew I was going to create bangs. Note that I got a wig without a part; this was for a reason. Sakura’s hair looks like it has a huge part going on, but you can tell by the front bangs that this is NOT a part. It is merely a lift in the side bangs.

(A sewn in weft)

I pull back one weft where I would like to insert another, clip it back, and then SLIP STITCH the new weft in right under the old one. This helps decrease the amount you can see, as the sewn weft usually has a large chunk of serging unlike the wig wefts. Slip stitch in a slightly darker color than your weft (I used black) so that it looks natural in shadows. Note that adding wefts into the top of a wig is very hard and you have to use very few if any. Adding wefts on the side is much easier. If you can avoid the top, do so. If not, like I did, just take your time and keep it as flat as possible.

(D: ugly)

Ah, a nice crop of hair ontop of that head. I was enthralled to get a perfect colour for the presewn wefts. Usually the Dollar Busters etc have a huge selection of colour, and they are more than happy to help you match (they may look like creepers but they totally aren’t). So you see now why I wanted to style the wig before hand? Now I just have to trim a bit!

(note that this is actually two steps)

I forgot to take a picture right after I styled. Stupid me. So above you see two steps. When I added in wefts, I only did so where I wanted the new bangs to be. In doing so, I can hide the wefts -very easily- by sewing the wefts in a certain fashion. It’s hard to explain, but you essentially sew one weft right side up, and the other from underneath. That way the one underneath hides the stitches when you pull the bangs upward. Either way, I pushed the bangs back with my hand softly, and sprayed some Got2B freeze spray on them. Then I took my hair dryer on the lowest setting and blew it back. I did use heat, because I wanted to slightly heat set the hair. Never leave the heat on TOO long or you will melt the synthetic fiber, if you have it. I then gelled a small part of hair and blow dried it while holding it in a loop (it’s so cute ;3). I made some extra tendrils in the same fashion. After having everything right, I gave another pass with the freeze spray and dried once more to set it.

(Wook at the wittle pigtail :3)

I had -tons- of weft left ofter, so it was time to make the little pigtails. I cut about 8 inches of weft and spun it in a roll, sewing it together as I went to keep it locked.

I took the pigtail and cut out a small chunk of hair from the wig. Note, I didn’t cut the WEFT it was on, I just trimmed the hair. I secured the pigtail at five points to make sure it didn’t drag the wefts down very much. Dispersing the weight is MOST optimal when adding sewn-in pigtails. I lined up the other side, and did the same.

The finished wig! I didn’t add the hair accessories yet, since they would be a dead giveaway to which costume I was doing :). Hope you enjoyed my tut! Any questions? Post in the comments!

 
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Posted by on June 25, 2011 in Costuming

 

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Patterning

This past winter, I took a class for patternmaking (it’s a requirement). Boy did I learn alot, but thankfully it was mostly out of a book. So I’m here to share a few things related to patternmaking if you want to get into it.

These are the basic tools of patternmaking that you’ll want to pick up. Everything else can usually be cast out. Here’s a list:

Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph-Armstrong (I recommend the fifth edition)
Vary Form Hip Curve
French Curve
Clear ruler (18in) with red markings
Tape (the green plaid kind is best)
Tacks/push pins (the really long grey kinds are optimal, but not shown here)
Tape measure (not pictured)

and…

DOT PAPER!

Dot paper is really crucial to the patternmaking process as you’ll be making all of your patterns on it. I can only find this at an art store in town, so you may have to ask around for it. It’s -most- optimal because the numbers and plus signs are all one inch apart, making patterning very very easy. If you try to work on non-lined or blank paper…you’re not going to like yourself.

And if you plan to pick up patternmaking, I recommend going to Home Depot and buying a 3×4 or so piece of Black Cat. Sometimes it comes bigger, and I usually get mine cut in four and use them until the cats have had their way with them.

Lastly, you’ll need some manilla paper/tag board. This can also be found in art stores, but not commercial ones like Michael’s. You can use this for blocks (I’ll talk about those in a later post) and over your Black Cat. You won’t want to draft ontop of Black Cat unless you have the manilla paper over it.

The best place to start? Start reading the book. It’s a bit expensive but you will -never- have to buy another pattern. Ever. You can make ANYTHING you want out of this book. It also has a few instructions on how to fit things if they’re not right.

Go at it! Have fun, and always message if you need some help!

~Kat

 
2 Comments

Posted by on June 24, 2011 in Costuming

 

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